All aboard for the Zig Zag Rail

07 September 2026 / Words and photos by Rod Nicholas

27-29 August 2026

A week out from our Blue Mountains run and the BoM’s weather forecast had me a little downhearted—cold, overcast days, plenty of drizzle. It did not auger well for an enjoyable run or train ride. But the day of departure dawned fresh and clear in dear old Canberra, and the sun was shining nicely when we pulled up at Sutton for the obligatory heart-starter and pre-run briefing.

The tops-down run up to our accommodation in Leura took the back roads through Crookwell, Taralga and Oberon. From a driver’s point of view, the shortish section between Laggan and Taralga with its wide seeping corners is MX-5 bliss. I’d pre-warned the lovely folks at the Taralga General Store that 24 excitable MX-5ers would be rocking up looking for coffee, tea and munchies, so they were well on top of our needs and served us all quickly and without fuss. And the coffee was great!

Onwards to Oberon and I was delighted to find the Taralga Road in excellent condition and the section leading down to the low-level bridge over the Abercrombie River fully upgraded. What was once a narrow rough track without barriers or guardrails, where you fretted over the chance of engaging a giant 4WD coming around a blind bend, was now a soundly surfaced, widened road capable of handling two vehicles side by side without forcing one into the rock face or off the road. It’s just a pity the roads folks didn’t have enough dollars left over to fill the large potholes that marred the uphill section over the river.

Regardless, our run into Oberon, where we invaded on of the cafes for lunch, was a hoot, zoom zooming up over Shooters Hill and winding through the pine plantations.

And then to Leura, and the fun turned off for a bit once we got closer to Lithgow. With the Great Western Highway closed around Victoria Pass, we were forced to detour thorough Lithgow, Clarence and Bell to reach Mount Victoria, adding extra distance and close to an hour to our trip. This whole section was one long roadworks site, with speed limits a miserly 40 kph, although we did get to a few spots of 70 kph. We sadly observed that much of this would be repeated when we returned the next day to catch the train.
Our arrival in Leura was treated with bright sunshine, and a fairly easy time getting into our accommodation at the Leura Gardens Resort. Then the inevitable question; what are we doing for dinner? ‘No plans made’, I said, ‘other than I’m heading to Mountain Culture Brewery in Katoomba to grab a bite and a little something to wash the dust out of my throat’.

And so it was (wany thanks to Phil for carrying a couple of us up there in his flashy i20N). A delicious beer (or two) consumed, burgers chowed down, take-homes purchased, and I was ready to face the footy on the tele. Others ate at the on-site restaurant or journeyed into Leura to one of the many cafes.

Train Day was another end-of-winter delight. Sunshine greeted early risers, and everyone was ready for the trip back to Clarence. Top down, and off we went, arriving well on time. Our dozen MX-5s looked magnificent in the car park (the i20N exiled itself) and attracted plenty of attention. We got in a photo shoot and time to wander and enjoy some snacks before the train arrived. Our party all made it into the one carriage as we got ready for the 90-minute journey up and down the hill. The steam train puffed and panted its zig-zag path, through the tunnels and over the viaducts, filling the carriages with noise and smoke. There was plenty of time at the stops to check out the historical photos and marvel at the engines. The many notices in the carriage to be careful operating the windows were dutifully noted by all. Well, not quite all, because they make a rather loud (and painful) thump if let loose, as your author will attest.

We had spare time after the train ride to look around Katoomba and Leura, and maybe to scoot down to the Norman Lindsay Gallery in Faulconbridge (which I had planned to do, but ditched because, to be honest, my thumb hurt). But we and many of the group found ourselves at Echo Point in Katoomba, enjoying the view of the magnificent Three Sisters and Blue Mountains scenery. Although some retired for a nanna-nap, we managed a short drive around Cliff Drive and a couple of short walks to other scenic viewpoints viewpoints.

That evening, I thought a few of us would eat at the restaurant but was pleasantly surprised when everyone decided that would be a good idea. A few quick calls to the restaurant secured some tables. Our noisy party arrived in dribs and drabs to settle a pre-dinner drink, chat further about the day, and enjoy a delicious meal.

The run home was the usual free for all. I had mapped three likely routes—one returning the way we came, another motoring down the hill to meet the Hume Boreway and the third to venture further west to Bathurst and home through Trunkey Creek and Tuena. They were all much the same distance and time but offered somewhat different driving experiences. I think most took the least exciting (and ostensibly quickest) route down the Hume, but a few zipped over to Bathurst (waving farewell to the Blue Mountains roadworks) and thoroughly enjoyed the Goulburn Road back to the Abercrombie River and Tuena. Simon and Cathy even got a couple of laps around Mount Panorama before heading home via Cowra.

Back home safely after 820 kms, after a fabulous drive and no unwelcome letters from NSW since (were those devices in the roadworks traffic counters or speed cameras?). Mind you, the thumb was 50 shades of black and blue by the time we got home, but at least it was no longer throbbing.

A wonderful few days—great weather, great roads, even better cars and a fantastic group of friends. What more do you need (other than a few pain-killers)?