We’re going Wayback – the Goulburn Brewery Run

20 October 2025 / Words: Rod Nicholas. Photos: Rod Nicholas, Rob Wilkins, Lili Chi

As the Founder (and Chief Appreciator) of the Fine Beer Appreciation Society I have a moral obligation to appreciate the wares of all our local breweries. News of the re-opening of the Goulburn Brewery, the new home of “Wayback” beers, was a call to duty. I am bound by solemn promise to the Great Humulus Lupulus to selflessly taste-test fine beer wherever and whenever I can, and to preach the Good Word far and wide.

Given it had been 20 years or more since I last visited the Goulburn Brewery, and for most of that time it's been shut and shuttered, its re-opening was welcome news.

The Goulburn Brewery claims the title of Australia’s oldest mainland brewery. It was established in 1836, by the banks of the Mulwaree River, and was designed by the convict Francis Greenway (Australia’s first architect). Over the years the site has operated as a flour mill, a cooperage, a malthouse, a rehab centre, a hotel, restaurant, theatre and function space and (of course) a brewery. When I was last there, the site was run by a Catholic priest!

The direct route from Canberra to Goulburn is about 85 km. But I drive an MX-5, and it was sunny, and the skies were blue, so any thoughts of a direct route went right out the window.

Granted it was a crisp 5C as we gathered in the carpark at Hall for a briefing, but the choice of going topless was so obvious the alternative wasn’t considered. I informed my fellow 14 zoomers that we had ahead of us a run of, roughly, 150 km each way, through mostly nice country roads, with a bit of highway thrown in because, well, we didn’t have much choice. Then it was move ‘em out, head ‘em up, and we were off.

The Pre-Run Briefing (or was it prayers?)

We left Hall heading to Gunning via Nanima Road and Gundaroo, and took a recaffeination stop at Gunning, most gathering at Merino Café. The roads had been clear, but we were mindful of the new 80 kph speed limit, which proved a good choice, notwithstanding that the speed van had just packed up as we drove past. We turned just out of Gunning onto the Grabben Gullen Road, which was handy as we were turning off at Grabben Gullen to take Range Road right into Goulburn. In a blink of the eye (or 30 MX-5 minutes) we motored into the Brewery carpark (Alas! It was dirt, as one of the gang bemoaned).

It is obvious the rejuvenation / reinvention / reincarnation of the brewery has been given a great deal of thought, effort and moolah. The place looks fantastic—the grounds are lush and green, the buildings limewashed and (almost) sparkling white. Inside, the restaurant and bar are modern and welcoming, with hints of the history of the place scattered around.

Lunch was delightful, and the refreshments on hand were most fitting of a new brewpub—fresh, light, hoppy where they need to, but refreshingly traditional and full of flavour. While I was wandering around, I had the good fortune to chat for a while with the brewer Neal Cameron. He’s excited for the opportunities the site provides and recently told The Crafty Pint (an online magazine dedicated to beer and brewing) “If I’ve learnt a lesson, it’s go gentle and go local. That’s where the margin is and it’s where you can grow and develop your brand.” Long may he brew!

After a brief rest (we seemed to have missed the ‘keep off the grass’ signs), I stuffed the showbag of goodies I had acquired in the boot, and rounded up the crew for the homeward journey. A few chose to travel the Hume/Federal Highways route home and I led most of the crew out of Goulburn and home ‘the long way’—down Windellama and Oallen Ford Roads to Tarago, then on into Bungendore and home.

The Convenor needed little rest after lunch

The run was a resounding success—a new destination, mostly empty roads in very good condition, near-perfect weather, excellent food and refreshments and great company. Special thanks to Annie and Laurie for driving up from Wagga Wagga to join us—wonderful to see you.

The Fine Beer Appreciation Society accords the brewery, and its Wayback Beers, a resounding 'Fine Brew'! Cheers!

Rod Nicholas, Run Leader